If a skincare product only remained on the outer layer of the skin, we wouldn't have to worry about the presence of endocrine disruptors or carcinogenic ingredients in formulas. The reality is that some ingredients do pass through the skin, so it's important to understand how this happens.
When you bathe or swim, your body doesn't double in size. So we know that the skin is waterproof. However, the skin is selectively permeable. Some ingredients pass through due to their tiny size, low molecular weight, and the fact that they are nanoparticles. Other ingredients pass through thanks to the ingredient "delivery system"—these are non-active ingredients that help other ingredients pass through the skin. If you've ever used a nicotine patch or a hormone patch, you know that medications can be delivered through the skin. In cosmetics, if you're applying an anti-aging cream that claims to increase collagen, you'd want the active ingredients to reach the collagen in the dermis (below the skin's surface).
If the desired active ingredients reach the dermis, the presence of toxins in the formula can unfortunately also reach it.
What do the regulators say?
Regulations exist to protect consumers. In the EU, skincare products must undergo a minimum number of tests before being marketed. Tests such as product stability and skin irritation are part of the standards. But no tests are required to prove that skincare products do not contain carcinogenic chemicals or endocrine disruptors. Skincare products must simply avoid any ingredients on official lists of "endocrine disruptors," "mutagens," or "carcinogens."
Unfortunately, regulatory authorities are notoriously slow to add toxins to their lists. This is especially true for endocrine disruptors (EDCs), which were recognized as toxins globally only two decades ago—in the early 2000s! So far, the list of endocrine disruptors is extremely short. In the EU, where the list is longest, it currently includes 25 ingredients. It takes about ten years for a chemical ingredient to be accepted by the various parties to be included on this list. The lobbying powers of chemical and pharmaceutical companies are enormous. Furthermore, products containing these toxins can still be sold to consumers for up to seven years after the ban. Another frustration arises when scientists modify a banned ingredient to replace it. The "new ingredient" then has to go through a whole decade of debate and evidence before it too is banned.
Why should we be concerned?
What are the effects of EDCs on human health? They interfere with our hormonal (endocrine) system by altering the synthesis, transport, and metabolism of hormones and by competing with hormone receptors in cells, resulting in increased or decreased stimulation at inappropriate times.
PEs can affect fetal development, immune response, human reproduction, metabolism, obesity, brain development, and can cause epigenetic changes in DNA.
More and more global studies are establishing a link between PEs and the decline in sperm count (more than 50% decline in 40 years) and early puberty. PEs are toxins that accumulate in our bodies and can ultimately lead to metabolic diseases (diabetes, obesity, cancer, etc.).
How to minimize PE and reduce the toxic load in our lives:
It's impossible to live without toxins in our modern lives. Fortunately, the body has the ability to eliminate toxins that enter our system. But unfortunately, it has a harder time accomplishing this task when the toxic load is high. Here are some potential sources of toxins:
- Plastics such as baby bottles and water bottles. Never heat food in plastic containers. Never drink water from plastic bottles that has been exposed to high temperatures (in the car during the summer).
- Flame retardant coatings on children's toys, clothing and bedding.
- Stain-resistant coatings on fabric-covered furniture
- Wall paint with high VOC (Volatile Organic Compound) content
- Contraceptive medications and pills
- Skin care and hygiene products
- Lycra and other petroleum-based synthetic fabrics, especially when these fabrics come into contact with the skin during perspiration
- Household cleaning products, laundry products
- Paraffin-based indoor candles (most candle waxes are paraffin-based)
How to limit toxins in skin care products?
By choosing natural skincare, you can minimize exposure to potentially harmful chemicals and reduce the risk of skin sensitivity or allergic reactions. It's worth noting that "natural" doesn't always mean "safe for everyone." Some people may still be sensitive or allergic to certain natural ingredients. Not all synthetic ingredients used in skincare products are harmful, just as not all natural ingredients are harmless. The majority of EDs are synthetic, man-made compounds, but some EDs are found in nature, such as plant-derived phytoestrogens and fungal-derived mycoestrogens.
When I founded Skin Diligent, I had a personal mission to create a skincare line that wouldn't trigger any endocrine disruptions. This was important because our first product line targeted acne, a skin condition strongly linked to hormonal imbalance. But the technology was, and still is, lacking to test skincare products for their hormonal impact. However, the skin does have estrogen receptors, so we could at least test and guarantee that Skin Diligent products were free from estrogen-like endocrine disruptions.
For me, avoiding the short list of endocrine disruptors wasn't enough. It was therefore essential to ensure that the finished formulas (taking into account the "cocktail" effect of the ingredients combined) were free from estrogen-type endocrine disruption. In this sense, our products are "safe" for pregnant and breastfeeding women, women who have had breast cancer, and anyone who wants to lead a life with fewer toxins.
Tule Park, co-founder