If a skincare product only stayed on the outer layer of the skin, we wouldn't have to worry about the presence of endocrine disruptors or carcinogenic ingredients in formulas. The reality is that some ingredients do pass through the skin, and it's therefore necessary to understand how this happens.
When you take a bath or go swimming, your body doesn't double in size. So we know that skin is waterproof. However, skin is selectively permeable. Some ingredients pass through due to their tiny size, low molecular weight, and the fact that they are nanoparticles. Other ingredients pass through thanks to the "diffusion system" of ingredients – these are non-active ingredients that help other ingredients penetrate the skin. If you've ever used a nicotine patch or a hormone patch, you know that medications can be delivered through the skin. In cosmetics, if you apply an anti-aging cream that claims to increase collagen, you'd want the active ingredients to reach the collagen in the dermis (below the skin's surface).
If desired active ingredients reach the dermis, unfortunately, the presence of toxins in the formula can also reach it.
What do regulators say?
Regulations exist to protect consumers. In the EU, skincare products must undergo a minimum number of tests before being placed on the market. Tests such as product stability and skin irritation are part of the standards. But no test is required to prove that skincare products do not contain carcinogenic chemicals or endocrine disruptors. Skincare products simply need to avoid any ingredient on the official lists of "endocrine disruptors," "mutagens," or "carcinogens."
Unfortunately, regulatory authorities are known to be very slow in adding toxins to their lists. This is particularly true for endocrine disruptors (EDCs), which were recognized as global toxins only two decades ago, i.e., in the early 2000s! So far, the list of endocrine disruptors is extremely short. In the EU, where the list is the longest, it currently contains 25 ingredients. It takes about ten years for a chemical ingredient to be accepted by various parties for inclusion on this list. The lobbying power of chemical and pharmaceutical companies is enormous. Moreover, products containing these toxins can still be sold to consumers for up to 7 years after the ban. Another frustration arises when scientists modify a banned ingredient to replace it. The "new ingredient" then has to go through a decade of debate and evidence before it too is banned.
Why should we be concerned?
What are the health effects of EDCs on humans? They interfere with our hormonal (endocrine) system by altering hormone synthesis, transport, and metabolism, and by competing for hormone receptors on cells, leading to increased or decreased stimulation at inappropriate times.
EDCs can affect fetal development, immune response, human reproduction, metabolism, obesity, brain development, and can lead to epigenetic changes in DNA.
Increasing global studies link EDCs to declining sperm counts (over 50% decrease in 40 years) and early puberty. EDCs are toxins that accumulate in our bodies and can eventually lead to metabolic diseases (diabetes, obesity, cancer, etc.).
How to minimize EDCs and reduce the toxic load in our lives:
It's impossible to live without toxins in our modern life. Fortunately, the body has the ability to eliminate toxins that enter our system. But unfortunately, it has more difficulty performing this task when the toxic load is high. Here are some of the potential sources of toxins:
- Plastics such as baby bottles and water bottles. Never heat food in plastic containers. Never drink bottled water from plastic bottles that have been exposed to high temperatures (in the car during summer).
- Flame retardant coatings on children's toys, clothing, and bedding.
- Stain-resistant coatings on upholstered furniture.
- Wall paint with high VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) content.
- Medications and birth control pills.
- Skincare products and hygiene products.
- Lycra and other petroleum-based synthetic fabrics, especially when these fabrics come into contact with skin during sweating.
- Household cleaning products, laundry products.
- Indoor paraffin-based candles (most candle waxes are paraffin-based).
How to limit toxins in skincare products?
By opting for natural skincare, you can minimize exposure to potentially harmful chemicals and reduce the risk of skin sensitivity or allergic reactions. It's worth noting that "natural" doesn't always mean "safe for everyone." Some people may still be sensitive or allergic to certain natural ingredients. Not all synthetic ingredients used in skincare products are harmful, just as not all natural ingredients are harmless. The majority of EDCs are man-made synthetic compounds, but some EDCs are found in nature, such as plant-derived phytoestrogens and fungal-derived mycoestrogens.
When I created Skin Diligent, I had a personal mission to create a range of skincare products that would not trigger any endocrine disruption. This was important because our first product line targeted acne, a skin condition strongly linked to hormonal imbalance. But the technology was, and still is, lacking to test skincare products based on their hormonal impact. However, the skin has estrogen receptors, so we could at least test and ensure that Skin Diligent products were free from estrogen-like endocrine disruption.
For me, avoiding the short list of endocrine disruptors was not enough. It was therefore essential to ensure that the finished formulas (taking into account the "cocktail" effect of ingredients put together) were free from estrogen-like endocrine disruption. In this sense, our products are "safe" for pregnant and breastfeeding women, women who have had breast cancer, and anyone who wants to lead a life with fewer toxins.
Tule Park, Co-Founder