If a skincare product only stayed on the outer layer of the skin, we wouldn't have to worry about endocrine disruptors or carcinogenic ingredients in formulas. The reality is that some ingredients do pass through the skin, so it's important to understand how this happens.
When you bathe or swim, your body does not double in volume. So we know that skin is waterproof. However, skin is selectively permeable. Some ingredients pass through because of their tiny size, low molecular weight, and the fact that they are nanoparticles. Other ingredients pass through because of the ingredient “delivery system” – these are non-active ingredients that help other ingredients pass through the skin. If you have ever used a nicotine patch or a hormone patch, you know that medications can be delivered through the skin. In cosmetics, if you are applying an anti-aging cream that claims to increase collagen, you would want the active ingredients to reach the collagen in the dermis (below the surface of the skin).
If the desired active ingredients reach the dermis, the presence of toxins in the formula can unfortunately also reach it.
What do the regulators say?
Regulations exist to protect consumers. In the EU, skincare products must undergo a minimum number of tests before they are put on the market. Tests such as product stability and skin irritation are part of the standards. But there are no tests required to prove that skincare products do not contain cancer-causing chemicals or endocrine disruptors. Skincare products simply have to avoid any ingredients that are on the official lists of “endocrine disruptors,” “mutagens,” or “carcinogens.”
Unfortunately, regulatory authorities are notoriously slow to add toxins to their lists. This is especially true for endocrine disruptors (EDCs) which were only recognised as toxins globally two decades ago, in the early 2000s! So far, the list of endocrine disruptors is extremely short. In the EU, where the list is the longest, it currently consists of 25 ingredients. It takes about ten years for a chemical ingredient to be accepted by the various parties to be included on this list. The lobbying powers of chemical and pharmaceutical companies are enormous. Furthermore, products containing these toxins can still be sold to consumers for up to 7 years after the ban. Another frustration arises when scientists modify a banned ingredient to replace it. The “new ingredient” then has to go through a whole decade of debate and evidence before it too is banned.
Why should we be concerned?
What are the effects of PEs on human health? They interfere with our hormonal (endocrine) system by altering the synthesis, transport and metabolism of hormones and by competing with hormone receptors on cells, resulting in increased or decreased stimulation at inappropriate times.
PEs can affect fetal development, immune response, human reproduction, metabolism, obesity, brain development, and can cause epigenetic modifications of DNA.
More and more global studies are establishing a link between PE and the decline in sperm count (more than 50% decline in 40 years) and early puberty. PE are toxins that accumulate in our body and can eventually lead to metabolic diseases (diabetes, obesity, cancer, etc.).
How to minimize PE and reduce the toxic load in our lives:
It is impossible to live without toxins in our modern lives. Fortunately, the body has the ability to eliminate toxins that enter our system. But unfortunately, it has a harder time doing this when the toxic load is high. Here are some of the potential sources of toxins:
- Plastics such as baby bottles and water bottles. Never heat food in plastic containers. Never drink water from plastic bottles that has been exposed to high temperatures (in the car during the summer).
- Flame retardant coatings on children's toys, clothing and bedding.
- Stain-resistant coatings on fabric-covered furniture
- Wall paint with high VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) content
- Contraceptive medications and pills
- Skin care and hygiene products
- Lycra and other petroleum-based synthetic fabrics, especially where these fabrics come into contact with the skin during perspiration
- Household cleaning products, laundry products
- Indoor paraffin-based candles (most candle waxes are paraffin-based)
How to limit toxins in skin care products?
By choosing natural skincare, you can minimize exposure to potentially harmful chemicals and reduce the risk of skin sensitivities or allergic reactions. It’s worth noting that “natural” doesn’t always mean “safe for everyone.” Some people may still be sensitive or allergic to certain natural ingredients. Not all synthetic ingredients used in skincare products are harmful, just as not all natural ingredients are safe. The majority of EDs are synthetic compounds made by humans, but some EDs are found in nature, such as plant-based phytoestrogens and fungal-based mycoestrogens.
Here are the Skin Diligent products whose finished formulas have been tested to ensure that they do not cause endocrine disruption of the estrogenic type.
When I started Skin Diligent, I had a personal mission to create a skincare line that wouldn’t trigger any endocrine disruptions. This was important because our first product line targeted acne, a skin condition that is strongly linked to hormonal imbalance. But the technology was, and still is, lacking to test skincare products for their hormonal impact. However, skin does have estrogen receptors, so we could at least test and guarantee that Skin Diligent products were free of estrogen-like endocrine disruptions.
For me, avoiding the short list of endocrine disruptors was not enough. It was therefore essential to ensure that the finished formulas (taking into account the "cocktail" effect of the ingredients put together) were free of estrogenic-type endocrine disruption. In this sense, our products are "safe" for pregnant and breastfeeding women, women who have had breast cancer and anyone who wants to live a life with fewer toxins.
Tule Park, Co-Founder