Hydration is the key to healthy skin

Hydration is the secret to naturally glowing skin. Poor hydration worsens skin problems like eczema, acne, wrinkles, dullness, itching and flaking, among others. In this article, you will learn how skin hydration works so you can get the most out of it.

The skin barrier and hydration

The outermost layer of the skin, called the stratum corneum, is made up of skin cells packed tightly together, forming a barrier that helps prevent water loss from the skin.
The stratum corneum contains water-based Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs), such as amino acids, urea, hyaluronic acid and lactic acid, which help retain water in the skin. NMFs attract water and bind it to the skin, helping to maintain hydration levels and prevent dryness.

In addition to NHFs, the skin contains lipid-based or lipid-friendly substances that help retain water and maintain skin hydration, such as ceramides, cholesterol, sebum, and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), which are long chains of sugar molecules that help bind water to the skin.

When the skin barrier is healthy and functioning properly, it can retain water and keep the skin hydrated. On the other hand, when it is compromised, water can evaporate more easily from the skin, leading to dry, dehydrated skin.

The role of the PIE

Water loss through the skin is a necessary and natural process of regulating temperature and eliminating toxins. But a damaged skin barrier allows too much water to escape, leading to dehydrated skin that is open to pathogens.

The natural process of water loss through the skin is called Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL), which is the evaporation of water from the skin surface into the air. The rate of transepidermal water loss is influenced by various factors, such as air humidity, temperature, air flow, age of the person, body condition, etc.

Where does skin hydration come from?

Hydration can come from both the outside and the inside of the skin. But one is more effective than the other. But first, here's a quick explanation of the role of electrolytes and osmosis on the skin.

Electrolytes refer to minerals such as sodium, potassium, and magnesium that regulate the water balance in skin cells. They also help maintain the electrical charge of cells and facilitate various cellular processes.

Osmosis refers to the movement of water across skin cell membranes, controlled by electrolytes. The outermost layer of skin may undergo osmosis (think wrinkled feet and fingers from soaking in the bath too long), but the water will not move any further. In other words, the skin is impermeable (your body weighs the same before and after your bath, it has not soaked up water). Water moves from areas of high water concentration to areas of low water concentration, in order to balance the concentration of solutes (such as electrolytes) on either side of the cell membrane.

When we drink water, electrolytes and osmosis help keep the skin hydrated and regulate its overall health. When the skin’s electrolyte balance is disrupted, such as through excessive sweating or dehydration, it can result in an imbalance of fluid and electrolyte levels in the skin, leading to dryness, flaking, and other skin problems.

Internal sources of skin hydration include:

1. Drink water: It is important to drink enough water to maintain general hydration, including skin hydration.
2. The body's natural hyaluronic acid: This is a substance found in the body that helps retain moisture in the skin.
3. Essential Fatty Acid Consumption: Omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids are important for maintaining healthy skin and promoting hydration.
4. Consume vegetables/fruits (they naturally contain minerals which are electrolytes): Electrolytes like sodium, potassium and magnesium are important for regulating fluid balance in the body, including the skin.

External sources of skin hydration include

1. Oily Elements in Skin Care: Applying oils or moisturizers containing oily elements to the skin helps create a barrier that seals in moisture and reduces water loss.
2. Humectants in skin care: Certain skin care ingredients, such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid, propanediol, or aloe vera, can help increase skin hydration.
3. Humidifiers: Using a humidifier in dry indoor environments can help add moisture to the air, which can benefit the skin.

How to care for the skin barrier and minimize TEWL?

The skin barrier can be compromised by a variety of factors, such as sun, cold, heat, lack of humidity, sweating, hormonal imbalances, and certain skin diseases or conditions. Poor skincare products damage the skin barrier or worsen an already compromised skin barrier.

A very harsh or drying cleanser, as well as cleansing or exfoliating too frequently, are harmful to the skin barrier because they do not allow enough time for the skin to regulate itself before starting the next skincare routine.

Opt for gentle cleansers such as Triple Action Cleanser . If you work from home or wear light makeup, you only need to cleanse once a day with a single cleanser (no double cleansing). Exfoliators should only be used once or twice a month and soaps on the face should be avoided. The reason is explained in the next section.

After cleansing, apply serums that match your skin's needs. Then seal the serums with a moisturizer that will contain oily elements (yes, for those with acne-prone skin too).

An alternative to this routine is to use Skin Diligent’s Bi-Phase DUO . Two serums, one water-based and one oil-based, work together to provide targeted solutions to skin concerns (fine lines, blemishes, dullness, dehydration, enlarged pores, respecting the microbiome and promoting cellular health) AND together, they simultaneously hydrate and seal in moisture, so a moisturizer is not necessary.

The role of the skin microbiome and skin pH

The skin microbiome is the collection of microorganisms that live on and in the skin, including bacteria, fungi, mites, and viruses. These microorganisms play an important role in maintaining skin health and function, and their composition can be influenced by a variety of factors, including skin hydration.

Dry skin can create a less favorable environment for some good microorganisms. Additionally, its pH can shift to a more alkaline level. This can happen because the skin's natural moisturizing factors, which help maintain hydration, are also important in regulating the skin's pH. When the natural moisturizing factors are depleted due to dehydration, the skin's pH can become less acidic and more alkaline.

When skin is well hydrated, its pH is typically slightly acidic, with a range of about 4.7 to 5.5. This slightly acidic pH helps maintain the skin's natural barrier function, which is important for protection against external irritants, pathogens, and other environmental stressors.

Studies have shown that the microbiome of dry, dehydrated skin can be less diverse than that of well-hydrated skin, with a lower abundance of beneficial bacteria, which can contribute to various skin issues and premature skin aging. Therefore, it is important to maintain good skin hydration to keep your skin healthy.

The use of soap (a product of saponification) alters the skin microbiome. Soaps are alkaline (have a high pH), which creates an environment conducive to the growth of less beneficial strains.

Key points to remember:

• It is important to limit excess water loss (PIE).
• Choosing the right cleanser and cleansing routines are essential to avoid skin damage.
• The skin microbiome plays a critical role in skin hydration and aging.
• Drinking water, with a good balance of minerals, is the "fountain" of hydration.
• Avoid soap on the face