Exosomes are everywhere in skincare conversations, yet rarely explained. An exosome is a tiny envelope released by a cell, surrounded by the same type of membrane as a cell, carrying proteins and other signaling molecules to a neighboring cell. This is how cells talk to each other. Here is what that means for the skin, and how to think about it honestly.
In short
- Exosomes are extracellular vesicles. They carry messages between cells.
- They are not new: they were first described in the 1980s. The attention from the cosmetic industry is.
- We formulate according to European regulations, which do not permit human-derived exosomes in cosmetics. Ours are of plant and probiotic origin.
- For an exosome to act on the skin, two conditions are required: bioavailability and affinity with human skin cells.
- Neither can be assumed for a non-human exosome. Both must be measured.
What an exosome is
Exosomes belong to a family that scientists call extracellular vesicles. Imagine a tiny envelope, surrounded by the same type of membrane as a cell, that a cell releases into its environment. Inside: proteins, lipids, and other signaling molecules.
Their function is communication. One cell sends a package, another receives it, and with it, a message. It is one of the fundamental modes of dialogue between cells, and it is well established in biology.
If a cell wants to transmit instructions to its neighbors, the exosome is one of the envelopes it uses.
How they work
A cell packs a set of molecules into a vesicle, then releases it. A recipient cell absorbs it, and its content influences its behavior. Researchers describe extracellular vesicles as central to intercellular communication, in both healthy tissues and in disease.
Where the cosmetic interest comes from
Exosomes are not new. They were first described in the 1980s and have been studied in biology for more than thirty years. What is new is the attention they are receiving in skincare, and the speed at which research into them has developed.
This attention has largely come from aesthetic medicine, where sometimes excessive promises have been made. We take a more measured stance. The interesting question is not how remarkable an exosome seems, but whether it actually does something on the skin.
Are exosomes allowed in cosmetics?
It depends on their origin. European cosmetic regulations prohibit cells, tissues, and products of human origin in cosmetic products. Human-derived exosomes are therefore not permitted in cosmetics sold in Europe. Those derived from plants and probiotics are.
This is useful to know when reading a claim. Much of the research that made exosomes famous was conducted on human-derived material in a medical context. It is not the same ingredient as the one in a jar on a shelf.
Why we test them, and what we test for
For an exosome to count on the skin, two conditions must be met. It must be bioavailable, meaning it is capable of actually reaching the skin. And it must have affinity with human skin cells, meaning it can be recognized by them. Without both, an exosome remains inert, regardless of how well it appears on an ingredient list.
And precisely because plant- and probiotic-derived exosomes are not human, their bioavailability and affinity with the skin cannot be taken for granted. They must be measured.
We therefore measure them in our own laboratory. This work, however unspectacular it may be, is the dividing line between an exosome that reads well on a label and an exosome that does its job.
What each one is for
The two exosomes we use are not interchangeable. Each is chosen for a different function, and for its affinity with the skin.
| Origin | Where it is found | Chosen for |
|---|---|---|
| Probiotic | Exosome Advanced Night Cream | The skin barrier and its tight junctions |
| Plant | CEL™ Complex | A soothing role |
The probiotic-derived exosomes in the Exosome Advanced Night Cream are chosen with the skin barrier in mind, specifically its tight junctions. Tight junctions are the links that connect skin cells. When they hold together well, the skin retains water and keeps the outside world at bay. With use, the skin is more comfortable and appears more resilient.
The plant-derived exosomes in the CEL™ Complex are chosen for a soothing role. The skin appears calmer and feels comforted.
The Exosome Advanced Night Cream also contains a longevity extract from the cashew tree — the tree, not the nut. Worn at night, the skin appears rested and cared for over the long term.
How to use it
In the evening, as the final step, over your serum. It pairs with the CEL™ Retinal Serum, or the Cellular Hydration Serum for a night without retinal. It is intentionally light rather than rich, for the reasons we detail in Hydration is the key to healthy skin.
Frequently asked questions
Do exosomes in cosmetics really work?
It depends entirely on the exosome and the formula. The biology is real and well established. What is not automatic is that a given exosome reaches the skin and is recognized by it. These two properties are measurable, and a brand that has measured them should be able to tell you.
Are plant exosomes worth as much as human exosomes?
They are different things, chosen for different functions, and they are the ones that are legally available in a cosmetic. The honest position is not that one substitutes for the other, but that a plant or probiotic exosome must earn its place based on its own measured properties.
Are exosomes safe in cosmetics?
A topically applied cosmetic exosome is evaluated like any other cosmetic ingredient, and we formulate according to European regulations, which do not permit material of human origin. This is a distinct issue from products injected in a clinic, which are not cosmetics. Ours are found in finished formulas that we also test on living cells for endocrine disruption.
Can I use an exosome product with retinal?
Yes. This is how ours is designed to be used. Retinal serum first, Exosome Advanced Night Cream over the top.
What are tight junctions?
They are the links between the cells of the upper living layers of the skin. In their absence, or when they are damaged, the skin can no longer retain water or keep irritants at bay — which results in a compromised skin barrier.
The night cream contains an extract from the cashew tree, not the nut. In case of a nut allergy, talk to your doctor before use.
Sources
- Challenges and directions in studying cell-cell communication by extracellular vesicles. Nature Reviews Molecular Cell Biology. 2022;23:369-382.
- A review of the regulatory mechanisms of extracellular vesicles-mediated intercellular communication. Cell Communication and Signaling. 2023.
- Brandner JM, Zorn-Kruppa M, Yoshida T, Moll I, Beck LA, De Benedetto A. Epidermal tight junctions in health and disease. Tissue Barriers. 2015;3(1-2):e974451. PubMed
- Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, Annex II — prohibited substances, including cells, tissues, and products of human origin.
To go further
Exosome Advanced Night Cream
Probiotic exosomes, measured for their affinity with the skin.
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